Cut-and-sew |
| If “cut and sew” means simply cutting and sewing a material, general dressmaking could also be considered a cut and sew process, but originally, this was not the intended meaning. “Cut and sew” was a phrase created to differentiate sweaters from other items in the knit category. Let us explain. |
| Fashion materials: |
| Fabric (woven material) |
| Knit (knit material) |
| Non-woven material (leather, fur, fake leather) |
|
| There are three types of fashion materials, as mentioned above. With the exception of ancient times when people wore animal fur - at the time when dressmaking made its first official appearance, fabric meant woven. Therefore, in traditional dressmaking, we have always studied techniques to apply to woven materials. It was a long time afterward until sweaters emerged, which were the first knits that made their way into the industry. This is why when we hear the word "knit", we associate with sweaters. Please look at the following chart. |
|
| Knits: |
| Weft-knit (Sweater) |
| Circular-knit (Stockinet) |
| Warp-knit (Tricot/Russell cloth) |
|
Whether it's needle-knit or machine-knit, we call it "weft knit" since sweaters are always knitted in the horizontal direction. They're link stitched (also called "linking.") As sweaters gained popularity in the world of fashion, warp knits and circular knits were becoming popular mostly in underwear industry. Women's underwear such as tricot chemise (slips) also made an appearance around this time, and these were warp-knit. Lace curtains used in homes were also tricot knits.
The underwear industry eventually expanded their business into outerwear, which posed a threat to the sweater industry. It was at this time that the word "cut-and-sew" was created by the sweater industry to differentiate themselves from other knits. The sweater industry described the difference as follows: "Sweaters are expensive products that are cut, shaped, knitted and linked. Stockinets and tricots are cheaper products that are simply cut and sew." Today, both sweaters and cut-and-sew items have their place in the industry, leveraging their unique characteristics. Together, they currently make up to 50% of the fashion industry revenue annually. In addition, over 90% of cut-and-sew items in the market are circular knits.
Circular knits can be categorized as follows. |
|
| Circular knits: |
| Single Knit (Jerseys) |
| Interlock (Smooth) |
| Double Knit |
|
|
copyright ©2007 Knit Sewing Club All Rights Reserved.