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What
is Knit Sewing?
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It
means "cut and sew" in the ready-made
clothing industry. Considering cutting and
sewing are characteristic features, the
term "cut and sew" was created to
distinguish knitted works from the
traditional knitting.
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Cut-and-sew
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If
"cut and sew" means simply cutting and
sewing a material, general dressmaking
could also be considered a cut and sew
process, but originally, this was not the
intended meaning. "Cut and sew" was a
phrase created to differentiate sweaters
from other items in the knit category. Let
us explain.
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Fashion
materials:
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Fabric
(woven material)
Knit (knit material)
Non-woven material (leather, fur, fake
leather)
There are three types of fashion
materials, as mentioned above. With the
exception of ancient times when people
wore animal fur - at the time when
dressmaking made its first official
appearance, fabric meant woven. Therefore,
in traditional dressmaking, we have always
studied techniques to apply to woven
materials. It was a long time afterward
until sweaters emerged, which were the
first knits that made their way into the
industry. This is why when we hear the
word "knit", we associate with sweaters.
Please look at the following chart.
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Knits:
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Weft-knit
(Sweater)
Circular-knit (Stockinet)
Warp-knit (Tricot/Russell cloth)
Whether it's needle-knit or
machine-knit, we call it "weft knit" since
sweaters are always knitted in the
horizontal direction. They're link
stitched (also called "linking.") As
sweaters gained popularity in the world of
fashion, warp knits and circular knits
were becoming popular mostly in underwear
industry. Women's underwear such as tricot
chemise (slips) also made an appearance
around this time, and these were
warp-knit. Lace curtains used in homes
were also tricot knits.
The underwear industry eventually
expanded their business into outerwear,
which posed a threat to the sweater
industry. It was at this time that the
word "cut-and-sew" was created by the
sweater industry to differentiate
themselves from other knits. The sweater
industry described the difference as
follows: "Sweaters are expensive products
that are cut, shaped, knitted and linked.
Stockinets and tricots are cheaper
products that are simply cut and sew."
Today, both sweaters and cut-and-sew items
have their place in the industry,
leveraging their unique characteristics.
Together, they currently make up to 50% of
the fashion industry revenue annually. In
addition, over 90% of cut-and-sew items in
the market are circular knits.
Circular knits can be categorized as
follows.
Circular knits:
Single Knit (Jerseys)
Interlock (Smooth)
Double Knit
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Frequently
Asked Questions:
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I don't have much
time...
It takes only 60 minutes to
complete sewing one piece. It sounds too
good to be true! You'll be making great
looking pieces after your first few
classes. Some people have said, "It's
faster than washing and drying!"
Sewing seems really
hard.
The traditional sewing can
be difficult, and it might be intimidating
for beginners at first, but at Knit Sewing
Club, we offer a program even a first
timer can adapt easily.
I've never learned
dressmaking, but I'm interested.
Our main goal is for you to
enjoy sewing through our specially
designed curriculum program. You'll have
so much fun you won't even realize you've
already completed a piece!
Is it difficult to sew
knits?
There's a misconception
that knits are difficult to sew. Today,
sewing machines have evolved and
techniques have advanced. Knits are
actually very easy to sew. With its
stretchy features, it'll give you less
room for mistake. Fabric that doesn't
stretch can't offer that. It was a long
time ago when you needed to use specific
notion knitting thread or knitting
needles. Knit Sewing Club offers improved
techniques that even a beginner can try
without worry.
Where is the Knit Sewing
Club from?
Sato Sampling Room Co.,
Ltd., headquarters of the Knit Sewing
Club, is the largest sewing company in
Japan. We sew samples for fashion shows
and exhibitions for over 300 major apparel
companies. Because we sew samples, we are
constantly receiving information on the
latest technology and styles. Keeping
up-to-date with the trends, the Knit
Sewing Club offers over 500 sewing
patterns for 60 minutes sewing. We hope
you will continue to enjoy dressmaking
with us at the Knit Sewing Club and
develop your skills.
What variety of patterns
do you offer?
We carry hundreds of
patterns which you can enjoy. Not only
t-shirts and blouses, but also dresses,
jackets, coats and many more which you can
finish sewing in just 60 minutes. Because
we manufacture the latest styles in the
industry, we even add new patterns
monthly.
What tools do we need to
bring?
Nothing. Come empty handed
and we'll supply all the materials you'll
need.
I tried sewing a knit, but
it stretched too much.
You should use differential
feed adjustment.
Which No. sewing machine
needle should I use?
We recommend No. 11.
Can I use thread that is
not for knits?
Yes. In the ready-to-wear
clothing industry, knit thread is used by
a small percentage of swimwear companies.
Woolly thread is used for plumb line at
winding lock.
Which type of thread can I
sew knits with?
We recommend polyester spun
thread No. 60.
Which types of overlock
sewing machine are good for sewing
knits?
We recommend 3-thread
1-needle or 4-thread 2-needle overlock
sewing machines with a differential feed
adjustment.
- 2-thread 1 needle overlock
Sewing machines for whipstitching
- 3-thread 1-needle overlock
Basic overlock that sews at a width of
about 4 to 5 mm (3/16").
You can sew more than 90% of knit fabrics
using this sewing machine.
- 4-thread 2-needles overlock
Sews at a width of about 7 to 10 mm (1/4"
- 3/8").
Used for special thick or lace knit
fabrics. You can also use this as a
3-thread 1-needle overlock for sewing at a
width of about 4 (3/16") mm by removing
the left needle.
I'm afraid that a 4-mm
(3/16") sewing width will cause
raveling.
People that have made
dresses with woven fabrics often worry
about that. But the answer is, there is no
problem with sewing knits. Woven fabrics
are woven by crossing the warp and woof.
Sewing using only an overlock gives a
narrow seam allowance resulting in seam
slippage. Knits are knitted by
interwinding so that seam slippage doesn't
occur.
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